About The Book

How to Grow your own Food
Dirty Nails

This book provides a personal account of planting seeds and growing organic garden vegetables...

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Book Contents »

 

1. Foreword

2. Preface

3. February, 1st Week - Leeks

4. February, 2nd Week - Paths

5. February, 3rd Week - Bean Trenches and Lettuce

6. February, 4th Week - Jerusalem Artichokes

7. March, 1st Week - Broad Beans

8. March, 2nd Week - Parsnips

9. March, 3rd Week - Onions

10. March, 4th Week - Radishes

11. March, 5th Week - Globe Artichokes

12. April, 1st Week - Scorzonera, Salsify And Calendula

13. April, 2nd Week - Leeks And Lettuces

14. April, 3rd Week - Beetroot And Courgettes

15. April, 4th Week - Hoeing, Root Veg And Runner Beans

16. May, 1st Week - Swedes

17. May, 2nd Week - A Word From The Flower Garden

18. May, 3rd Week - Turnips And Runners

19. May, 4th Week - Courgettes, Nettles And Comfrey

20. May, 5th Week - Purple Sprouting Broccoli And Broad Beans

21. June, 1st Week - Blackfly On Broad Beans

22. June, 2nd Week - Planting Out Leeks

23. June, 3rd Week - Kohlrabi

24. June, 4th Week - Pottering, Tending Runner Beans, Jerusalem Artichokes And Courgettes

25. July, 1st Week - Cabbage White Butterflies

26. July, 2nd Week - Bull-Necked Onions And The Last Globe Artichokes

27. July, 3rd Week - Perpetual Spinach (Leaf Beet)

28. July, 4th Week - Lots Of Badgers, Beetroot, Runners And Courgettes

29. August, 1st Week - Onions, Spring Onions And Jerusalem Artichokes

30. August, 2nd Week - Moles, Molehills And Weeding

31. August, 3rd Week - Storing Onions And Sowing Green Manure

32. August, 4th Week - Flowers In The Veg Patch

33. August, 5th Week - Root Veg

34. September, 1st Week - Winter Onions

35. September, 2nd Week - Leaf-Mould And Compost

36. September, 3rd Week - Winter Purslane And Corn Salad

37. September, 4th Week - Runners, Greens And Comfrey

38. October, 1st Week - Sorting Out The Shed

39. October, 2nd Week - Looking After Purple Sprouting And Frogs

40. October, 3rd Week - Autumn-Sown Broad Beans And Sunday Feasts!

41. October, 4th Week - Essential Greenhouse Work & Potting-On Purslane

42. November, 1st Week - Garlic

43. November, 2nd Week - Winter Work And Harvesting Jerusalems

44. November, 3rd Week - Sunflowers, Teasels And Finches

45. November, 4th Week - In The Veg Store & Putting Globe Artichokes To Bed

46. November, 5th Week - Winter Digging

47. December, 1st Week - Tending Winter Onions

48. December, 2nd Week - Wasps, Leaf-Mould And Brassicas

49. December, 3rd Week - Shallots

50. December, 4th Week - Mulching With Bracken

51. January, 1st Week - Planning For The Season Ahead

52. January, 2nd Week - Planting Bush Apples

53. January, 3rd Week - Cups Of Tea And Cobnuts

54. January, 4th Week - Chitting Potatoes

55. January, 5th Week - Heeling In Leeks And North Facing Cherries

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January, 2nd Week - Planting Bush Apples

 



Planting Bush Apples

This is a good time of year to plant apple trees, as long as the weather is not too severe and the ground isn’t waterlogged or frozen. Dirty Nails gets enormous pleasure from tending his collection of fruit trees.

Bush apples
Some of Dirty Nails’ apples are grown as ‘bush’ trees, which are ideal where space is limited. With apples, the final size of the tree is dictated by what rootstock the variety is grafted onto. Bush apples can be grown on a number of different rootstock, but his are on what is called M26, which is relatively dwarfing. The full-grown tree should attain no more than roughly 10 feet (3 metres) in height, and the fruit will be within easy reach for harvesting. He has planted his bush apples with 12 feet (3.6 metres) spacings.

Dirty Nails grows varieties of apple that all come into blossom together. This is an important factor, as most apple trees will set a better crop if pollinated by another variety flowering at more or less the same time. Merton Knave, Worcester Permain, Sunset, Blenheim Orange, Pixie and Wagener are all dessert (or ‘eating’) apples. They should provide ripe fruit to munch on from late-August (Merton Knave, picked and eaten straight from the tree) through to March (Wagener, picked in October and stored carefully).

Dirty Nails buys his fruit trees as one-year old ‘maiden whips’, which means that they are a single stem (scion) grafted onto the rootstock. He is very fussy about where he sources his trees from. He only buys from a well-known West Country nursery that produces an excellent, informative catalogue, and where staff can answer all queries with authority over the phone. Delivery to the door is crucial too, because often there is no time for big trips out.


Planting

The maidens should arrive tied in bags, with straw or similar wrapped around the roots. They can be kept under cover like this for a while if planting conditions are unfavourable at that time. The sunny site will have been thoroughly cleared and weeded beforehand. Dirty Nails plants the apple trees with as little disturbance to the soil as possible. He levers a slot open with a spade and spreads the roots down into this gently with his fingers. If the soil is fairly good there is no need for fertilisers. Fresh manure is definitely a no-no because it will burn the root tips.

Great care must be taken at this stage to ensure that the junction of scion and rootstock is kept well clear of the ground, and the soil mark on the stem coincides with the soil level after the slot has been firmly, but carefully, closed snugly around the roots with lightly stamping feet. Air pockets must also be avoided or else the roots, and therefore the tree, are liable to suffer.

No staking is needed for bush apples planted like this. Any natural movement of stem in the wind will only encourage strong root growth. All that remains, for now, is to apply a goodly bucket of water, one per tree, and to keep well moist throughout the first summer.

Vegetable Snippets: Apple Rootstocks Explained

Rootstocks are prefixed with ‘M’ or ‘MM’. The former were developed at the East Malling Research Station in Kent, while the latter came to fruition at Merton Malling. Between them, they have revolutionised apple cultivation for the home producer. Trees can be nurtured on rootstock which is adapted to suit local conditions and available space, from good soil to poor, large acreages to backyards and pots.

  • M27 is ‘extremely dwarfing’. Fully cropping after five years, an apple tree on this rootstock will never grow taller than an average man. Trees should be staked for support, and surrounding soil should be well fed.
  • M9 is ‘very dwarfing’, with maximum cropping potential realised a year or two later than those on M27. Ten feet (3 metres) is the usual full-grown height. They will need full-time supports and seasonal feeding. M9 is a good choice for apple trees in a small garden.
  • M26 is ‘dwarfing’, and what Dirty Nails cultivates his bush apples on.
  • MM106 is deemed ‘semi-dwarfing’ or ‘semi vigorous’, and used to grow half-standard trees. They reach maximum cropping potential after eight years, but will be producing fruits in half that time. Fully grown MM106 apple trees may be up to 20 feet (6 metres) in height, and are thus ideal for medium-sized gardens.
  • MM111 (M25) is the rootstock of choice if a vigorous standard tree is desired. It is the perfect rootstock for large gardens or orchards. Within ten years a heavy crop will bear annually, but take care whilst picking - a ladder will be essential for reaching the uppermost boughs and branches.